Seville Tapas Bars
There are two basic types of dining out in Sevilla: going for tapas (small
portions generally between 1,50-4€) or heading to a restaurant for a more
traditional meal. This section covers the many bars and restaurants where you
can practice tapeando, or going out for tapas.
This is not to say you can't order a plate of food in many tapas bars: you
will see groups sharing a ración (plate) or media ración (half-plate) of the
same dishes. And in many of the good restaurants you can order tapas at the bar.
This is a nice way to try some excellent food without paying the full price of a
sit down dinner or lunch!
Casa Cuesta
The Casa Cuesta location in Triana has a history of over 100 years (founded
in 1880). The location in the center has a history of less than a year! Still,
the folks at Casa Cuesta have of course benefited from running a restaurant and
tapas bar for more than a century, and that experience shows in the new
location.
My recommendation would be to arrive early, as the bar area for tapas is much
smaller than the Triana location. Once you get a spot at the bar, take a look at
the long list of tapas covering just about every genre: pescado (fish),
mariscos (shellfish), carnes (meat), chacina (cured
meats such as jamón, caña de lomo, chorizo) and a number of specials.
Casa Cuesta
c/ Zaragoza 50 (near Plaza Nueva)
Sevilla
Tel: 954 229 718
El Patio de San Eloy
As typical a Sevillian atmosphere as you can get once inside. The lower level
is large and open, with ceramic tile benches/bleachers in the back where you can
sit down and munch on olives or little sandwiches (montaditos). A large
number of these montaditos and sandwiches are sacked high behind the
bar, ready to be heated up and served (though one wonders about the freshness
without refrigeration).
Surrounding the bar are several groups of tables. Upstairs there is a dining
area, but no real dining goes on in this place. In fact, I really recommend this
as a place for a cold beer. The waiters always seem friendly enough, but after
having seen them pull the bad part of a piece of jamón off a
montadito before heating it up (more than a few times), I'm not too "keen"
on eating much aside from the olives.
El Patio de San Eloy
c/ San Eloy 9
Sevilla
Blanco Cerillo
They have some other tapas as well, but why bother when they have perfected
boquerones en escabeche. If I had to
pick one food for the rest of my life it would be this. The bar is very small
and outdoor seating may be a few minutes wait on a nice day. Same (and the only)
waiter, Emilio, has been there for over 10 years. I make sure I go almost once a
week. Boquerones are best ordered in tapa or media ración, and it's your choice
with homemade mayo or without. Sadly, we don't see Emilio working the tables
outside anymore, and wonder where he is. He was my favorite sevillista, and
always took good care of us.
Blanco Cerillo
c/ Jose de Velilla
Sevilla
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